Variance Log

Meccariello ,special production  with  incredible width

Semi bespoke Made to measure,model on customer request,in french calf chestnut

A special shoe for a special client with a bespoke fitting L++ ,with a bespoke last.

(Source: meccariello-calzoleria)

subskin:

Part 2 of the the bespoke fitting for DS

Continuing from the part one…(http://subskin.tumblr.com/post/92706070492)

Apart from the minor adjustments here and there, I am readjusting the collar  for a tighter fit around the neck of DS and ultimately for a better overall balance (mainly for the front panels of the jacket). After I have done that I decide to lift the back panels for the correct front to back balance of the jacket: tighter fitting collar lifted the front of the jacket and the back needed to be lifted as well to be balanced correctly. I will compensate the length of the jacket at the hem, front and back). 

This is a first commission by DS (second fitting) and everything that we adjust on the fitting garment will be also adjusted on DS’s paper pattern too. 

Part 3 to be continued…

-JH

P.S. it seems the captions are only visible on the desktop brower not on mobile devises such as iPhones and iPads… Strange…

victorianizer:

For no one knew how to draw proper menswear better than Joseph Christian Leyendecker.

(via jlindman)

subskin:

Bespoke Fitting

Second Fitting for DS - Part 1

A few pictures taken during the second fitting of a suit on DS, a good client who has a broad chest/large arms and built lower body from athletic activities he has undertaken during his lifetime.

I don’t have the basted fitting (first fitting) pictures unfortunately as I didn’t think I was going to document any of it, however I thought it would be interesting to show through some pictures what takes places in a typical bespoke fitting.

I have added captions in each photos to illustrate what I am doing in the each picture, and hopefully viewers can understand and see some of the processes that are relevant in fitting/tailoring of a bespoke garment.

We are fitting a single breasted 3 rolled to 2 suit on DS. Some of the adjustments made during the baste fitting (first fitting) have taken effect on the garment and is shaping up nicely.

to be continued in part 2…

-JH

lnsee:

Qemal, Taka, Antonio

lnsee:

Qemal, Taka, Antonio

santillo1970:

Santillo 1970
Radici project
info@santillo.eu

santillo1970:

Santillo 1970

Radici project

info@santillo.eu

lnsee:

Taka in grey glencheck w/ grey windowpane

lnsee:

Taka in grey glencheck w/ grey windowpane

toquote:

Small teaser for the Eton X Eidos Napoli AW 2014 collection. The collection will be released August 27 under the Stockholm Fashion Week.

A short video about the collection with Antonio Ciongoli, the Creative Director at Eidos Napoli, can be shown here.

(Source: manolo.se)

ethandesu:

Model 505 Double Monk in Burgundy Crust 611
Pret Customised for ZS - Good Luck Bruiser!

ethandesu:

Model 505 Double Monk in Burgundy Crust 611

Pret Customised for ZS - Good Luck Bruiser!

lnsee:

Empty space:
Navy suit by Liverano, paired with a summer cotton tie by Mattabisch

lnsee:

Empty space:

Navy suit by Liverano, paired with a summer cotton tie by Mattabisch